From Areni to Saryan: The Journey of the Crimson Nectar
Narek Avedyan
May 30, 2023
3 min read
When it comes to viticulture, Armenia has a rich history which stretches back to thousands of years. The cultivation and harvesting of grapes for the purpose of wine-making is a craft honed through many millennia. From the ancient caves of Areni, to the modern wine festivals in the country’s capital, Armenian wine has had quite a journey.
The apex of everything wine-related in Armenia is surely the annual Wine Days festival which takes place on a street named after the painter Martiros Saryan, right in the heart of Yerevan. For three nights, you can indulge in some of the finest wines Armenia has ever produced, and taste the delicious food that goes along with it. But, before we partake of that cup, let’s take a step back to the humble beginnings of Armenian wine-making, all the way to the caves of Areni.
A Neolithic Beginning
Yes, you read that right! The earliest examples of Armenians making wine can be traced back to the Neolithic era, which is some time around 4100 BC, give or take a few hundred years. Excavations in the Areni-1 cave complex have revealed the world’s oldest winery to date, as well as various items such as clay jars, grape seeds, and crushed grapes. All of this suggests credence to the theory that Armenia may just be one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world.
The neolithic ancestors to the modern Armenians were absolutely fascinated by wine, and went to great lengths when it came to producing the drink. This appears to have passed from generation to generation, as Armenia still holds a high status when it comes to wine-making. In fact, aside from the Armenian brandy which was made famous by Winston Churchill (apparently, he never tried the wine!), the drink is also mentioned several times in Sasna Tsrer (Daredevils of Sassoun) – Armenia’s national epic.
Revitalizing Tradition: A Renaissance
Even though the craft has been practiced for so many years, wine-making took a hit when Armenia fell under Soviet rule. Instead of the heavenly nectar from grapes, Armenians focused more on producing brandy (referred to then as cognac) and wine-making was mostly limited to a number of small producers and, of course, homemade wine.
With the fall of the Soviet Union, people began to refocus their attention on what can be considered as Armenia’s national drink. Slowly but surely, wineries began to open, Areni became a thing, and people began to reclaim their heritage by reviving ancient grape varieties and even going as far as mixing centuries-old wine-making techniques with modern technology.
In-House, and Only In-House!
“Grapes from abroad? Silly boy! Why would we bring the grapes from somewhere else, when they grow in abundance on our own soil?” This was a comment made by a local wine-maker when he was asked by a reporter about the types of grapes his winery uses. In fact, using indigenous grape varieties such as Areni, Voskehat, and Khndoghni is a point of pride with many Armenian wine makers.
These grapes, grown in diverse microclimates and volcanic soils, lend unique characteristics to Armenian wines, which make them a delicacy outside of Armenia as well. Couple that with most brands having unique Armenian names (some of which go back to the times of Urartu, such as Tushpa) as well as designs featuring Armenian paintings and ornaments, and you get a distinctly Armenian chain of products.
Choose Your Destination: Saryan Street
Well, well, well! We’ve stepped out of the Areni caves, we’ve hopped into a Yandex cab (or GG) and we’re on our way to Saryan street to take part in the annual Wine Days festival. Three days of everything wine-related. From established brands to newer brands who are just appearing on the market, Wine Days celebrates and showcases the best in Armenian wine making. It brings together winemakers, enthusiasts, and tourists from around the world, greatly benefiting the economy. Whether it’s tastings, masterclasses, cultural events, and even history lessons about the diversity and quality of Armenian wines, you can find it on Saryan! This year, the festival will be held on June 2-4.
Back to the Caves While Looking to the Future
While Wine Days gathers larger numbers of people every year, the progress of Armenian wine-making is not limited to it alone. There are now daily tours to Areni’s caves and the famous Areni winery which educate tourists on the history of this craft (or, rather, art) in Armenia while allowing them to taste various wines. These tours, as well the Wine Days festival, act as catalysts for where Armenian wine-making can go from here, both locally and internationally. So, next time you’re planning a trip to Armenia, make sure to include wine somewhere in there! Churchill loved the brandy, but we’re sure the wine is to die for!
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